As the temperature rises, and the international menswear trade calendar heats up, sunglasses-covered eyes look to spring/summer 2017 and the labels that lead the way, full steam ahead.
The eleventh edition of Jacket Required will play host to an eclectic mix of international collections, with energy and enthusiasm, at London’s Old Truman Brewery.
Destination: spring/summer 2017. Today’s selection of our industry’s fortune-tellers set out what to expect from a new time in menswear – for the soles of your feet, to the shirt on your back – for seekers of sun, sea and style, as they set sail into the new season.
Portuguese Flannel
Priding itself on its use of traditional fabrics, made in a traditional way on the coast of Portugal, this family-run organisation has come a long way since the brand’s inception. Headed up by brothers, Antonio and Manuel Magalhães, who honour their great grandfather’s textile legacy, creating high-quality shirts through a labour-intensive process, in which expert weavers ‘nap’ the cloth – lifting up fibre ends and employing a meticulous brushing technique to create a long lasting material with a distinctive, incomparable feel.
With a variety of playful prints and new styles which pay tribute to the country’s art and wealth of textile heritage – Portuguese Flannel provides sublime shirting for spring/summer 2017. Valuing and honouring the ancestral legacy of its forefathers, the brand is inspired by the people from both the coast and the mountains, and their brave and challenging way of living. It’s this wisdom that lies at the heart of a passionate workforce and family business that spans four generations.
Hartford Swim
Frenchman Yves Chareton arrived in New York in 1979. Having previously designed for Hermes, he held the intention to re-create the shirts of the American dream, from Oxford cotton button-downs to chambray work shirts. Teaming up with a Stateside manufacturer, Chareton was able to replicate vintage fabrics – establishing the brand’s winning combination of vintage European-chic style with a relaxed American aesthetic. This contributed to Hartford’s immediate success, with the label gathering a cult following of those in search of colour, taste and an unexpected mix of materials to give an informal edge.
Hartford brings understated French style to menswear classics – casual and cool, the brand reinvents traditional fashion for the modern man, which translates from its ready to wear range, into the Hartford Swim collection for spring/summer 2017. From polo shirts to swim shorts, the label builds upon its enduring philosophy to mix quintessential designs in rich colours with refined, vibrant prints. Aspirational and accessible, the preppy stalwart continues to serve up alternative, easy-to-wear classics for the new season, as Parisian refinement meets vintage American style – whether for the Riviera or the West Coast.
Atelier de l'Armée
Inspired by the functionality and quality of army gear, Atelier de l'Armée – Army Workshop, as it translates into English – is built to last a lifetime. Many of its durable pieces are handcrafted from military canvas and high-quality leather, including weekend bags, military canvas and nylon totes.
With two parts to its collection – Series and Collectors – the Amsterdam based brand draws inspiration from texture, form and colour, with signature vintage handcrafted bags and accessories for the everyday city cyclist, outdoorsman, and the travelling adventure seeker. The label strives to be environmentally, morally and ethically conscious – with many items built out of a zero waste philosophy, created by mixing high quality dead stock or repurposed materials.
For the love of the old, the worn, the rusted, the faded, the stained and the patched – Atelier de l'Armée offers products that are well-constructed and skilfully crafted with a fine regard for detail.
Teva
Back in 1984, a Grand Canyon river guide rigged two Velcro watchbands to an old pair of flip flops to create a shoe that wouldn’t float away. Three decades later, Teva has grown into an icon of utilitarian style – a nostalgic footwear label notable for its innovative and adventurous designs, which represent timeless comfort.
The rise of the sports sandal over the last couple of years has seen the label release new colourways and styles alongside its classic Original Universal. With a number of styles specially designed with both stores and brands, including Opening Ceremony, United Arrows, White Mountaineering and Han Kjøbenhavn – the footwear label has reinvented itself as a king of collaborations – exclusive, on trend, and built to last.
The adventurous spirit that pioneered the very first pair of Teva sandals takes form in everything it creates – a lifestyle brand that has stood the test of time, offering freedom in footwear – versatile for all kinds of activities, both on land and in the water.
Maians
Born in 2008 in the authentic barrio of Barceloneta, Barcelona – also known as the “ancient island of Maians” – with the idea to recover the shoemaking heritage of Spain, the traditional methods of how to create a shoe, and bring it to current times. Each pair is handcrafted, one by one, in La Rioja by traditional shoemakers using the original shoemaking techniques and 100% local-sourced materials.
Inspired by its unique neighbourhood, La Barceloneta – the perfect mix between beach culture and cosmopolitan life – this season, a change is afoot. Exploring new ways of feeling, connecting or exploring, the brand brings back the old good methods – the way we interact with nature; the way we travel the world; the way we handcraft a pair of shoes. Whether for the unconventional artist, the foodie visionary, the creative traveller, the nature hunter, the Mediterranean maker, or the urban nomad, Maians believes good things are made to stay and last, from past to future, generation by generation, starting from today.