Menswear layering rarely has the diversity that exists in womenswear and, as a result, clothing becomes iconic through characters pioneering the idea of jeans and a T-shirt, the three-piece suit, or the Harrington and polo. The shirt and the sweater are the bread and butter of the wardrobe. They are the personification of smart casual, the uniform of the thinker and, as some would say, a representation of simple, classic menswear. The combination has been the menswear go-to for generations, quietly integrated into society, with some subcultures adopting the button-down shirt and v-neck, and others a popped collar and sweatshirt. It has been the school uniform, the interview attire, the prime choice for understated impressions – cementing itself as timeless.
Samsøe & Samsøe | Double A-Side | Edwin | OLOW | GANT Rugger
At Jacket Required we looked at the brands’ takes on the classics. Knitwear and shirts have been integrated into many collections, while few have altered the DNA of what makes these pieces staples. There's texture through flecks, detail through embroidery and colour through digital printing and, as expected within menswear, shades of blue remained the primary approach.
Samsøe & Samsøe
North Quarter by Christopher Shannon
GANT Rugger
"Many men use Einstein's theory for the way that they get dressed – ’So that I don’t waste any brainpower in the morning deciding which set of clothes to wear.’ The shirt and sweater combo falls easily into this remit, so whether it’s a classic or a preppy aesthetic, or the modern swagged-out references of shirt and tie under the casual sweatshirt, it allows the everyday man the ability to express his sartor without too much stress. The combination is an accepted form of a smart casual modus operandi – which means that in most formal or casual situations, you can operate without inferiority or the need to overtly express oneself.
“I wouldn't describe it as a form of layering, as that simplifies the art of the layering technique, which constitutes more than the humble shirt and crew or v-neck. From Sloanes to Skins and many tribes in-between, you can wear either a polo or a button-down Oxford shirt under your v-neck, each of these examples presenting an extremely different form of the male armour but, nonetheless, both declaring to the onlooker which army or tribe you might adhere to.”
- Harris, Art Director, Return of the Rudeboy
OLOW
Double A-Side | Edwin